I usually introduce my patterns saying they cover UK size 6 to 20, or US size 2 to 16, or EU size 34 to 48, but as everyone knows, a certain size can be different from one brand to another. For instance, you may be a 42 for a certain brand and a 44 for another, and this is very confusing.
Forget that you are a 42 or a 44, you are a set of unique measurements above all.
So in the avoidance of doubt, I have decided to call my pattern sizes by letters instead of usual sizes. Because when it gets to sewing, it is very important to focus on the measurements and not on the size you think you are in a ready-to-wear world.
All my patterns comes in the following sizes (cm in):
These sizes are for a B-cup bust.
I am slowly adding the following sizes to my existing patterns (cm in):
These sizes are for a D-cup bust.
The A-H size range is for a B-cup bust size and the F-M size range is for a D-cup size. Ok great, but what does it mean?
It is important to take the cup size into account because the patterns are drafted based on that bust size / shape and it will help for fitting purpose.
In the pattern world, cup sizes don’t actually correspond to bra sizes…as if it was not confusing already! Cup sizes correspond to the difference between your high bust measurement and full bust measurement.
Now calculate the difference between your full bust and your high bust measurements:
- If Full Bust – High Bust = 5cm 2in ==> B-cup
- FB – HB = 7.5cm 3in ==> C-cup
- FB – HB = 10cm 4in ==> D-cup
If your bust is smaller or fuller than the cup the pattern is made for, then the pattern might not fit perfectly. In that case it is best to make a smaller bust adjustment (SBA) or a fuller bust adjustment (FBA) on the pattern.
If you are a size F, G or H, you will have noticed that these sizes are in both size ranges, so you might be wondering which one to choose?
The answer is your cup-size! If you are close to a B-cup then choose from the A-H range. If you are closer to a D-cup then choose from the F-M range.
My patterns are based on a 1.65m / 5’5″ heigh.
If you’re smaller/taller, consider shortening/lengthening the necessary pattern pieces. I do shorten my own patterns all the time since I’m 1.58m / 5’2″ !